By contrast, the rambling old hamlet of Kale and its magnificent ruined castle was a wonderful place to stay at the eastern limit of our cruise. This is in a sailing area known as the Kekova Roads which consists of two massive, landlocked bays where flat, sheltered water is pretty much guaranteed. They provided great cruising and exploring for four tranquil days. The wild landscape, littered with ancient sarcophagi, is linked by a long footpath which passes by the ruins of Simena, an ancient city now partly covered by the clear blue sea. If archaeology, ancient history and hiking appeal, this is a great area to spend time.

Despite dire warnings of ‘poor holding’ at Kale, it proved simple to moor alongside rickety pontoons sticking out from a handful of waterside restaurants. We paid two visits to Hasan Baskan’s Roma restaurant and can thoroughly recommend it for a peaceful mooring in a superb location with the castle towering overhead — what’s more, Hasan looks after his visiting yachts extremely well, providing good food, fresh water and great value.

We did not always get on so well with local entrepreneurs. It was fine having small boats come alongside most mornings to sell freshly baked bread and groceries, though you need to watch their prices. It was not fine to be pestered by touts in the anchorages close to Gemiler Island, which in other respects is a wonderful place with a maze of extraordinary Byzantine ruins. These guys insist on taking control when you park the yacht and saying ‘No thanks’ starts to get very tiresome.